How do you manage to use pyjama suiting in gold, tartan, snow leopard, cammo and stripes; combine it with references ranging from 70’s metal, 80’s punk and Edwardian era elegance; give the models mono-brows and rust coloured hair, and produce an entirely tantalising collection? Easy, you just need to be Rei Kawakubo.

Adding to the intrigue was the use of fabrics; elongated biker jackets were rendered soft in terry cloth and sweat-shirting, which served to modernise the familiar, while adding a different angle to the masculine silhouette. Conversely, the soft was hardened with strips of studs running down flowing cape-like coats. Underneath the multifarious outerwear pieces, the pyjama-esque uniforms looked surprisingly dapper.

I would succinctly describe the collection as rock’n’roll-military-ye olde-bedroom-chic. Only Kawakubo could make terry cloth covetable. Maybe give the mono-brow a miss though.

Photographer - Karl Hab

Clementine Widdowson - de Pressigny